Let’s start the New Year with a bang! It’s not everyday I get to try a 40-year-old Port Ellen and I do believe that goes for most of us. In fact, for me this will be the very first Port Ellen whisky I’ll ever try. Port Ellen is quite literally the stuff of legends for whisky lovers, and sadly enough price and availability confirm that. This Port Ellen XOP 40 is a little extra special though, as it was bottled in honour of the 75th anniversary of independent bottler Douglas Laing.
For me personally it’s a special one as well, and not just because this will be my first dram of the year. It’s special as I got this sample from my dear friend Davide Ansalone (known for most as @whisky_munich on Instagram). During last years Chichibu 7even Gods of Fortune event he gifted me this sample, for which I can’t thank him enough. If you want to see some absolutely stunning whisky photography, be sure to check out his profile on Instagram!
A piece of History
Port Ellen Distillery closed in 1983. But it continued as a malting operation supplying most of Islay’s distilleries with their malted barley. In 2017 Diageo announced that the distillery would be reopened, a promise which was fulfilled last year in March. Which sadly enough was combined with the decision to stop supplying malt to other Islay distilleries. But that’s perhaps a discussion for a different time.
Having been closed for more than 40 years now, one might imagine how rare Port Ellen Whisky has become. Especially given its huge popularity amongst whisky lovers. And the dram I’m tasting today is not an old bottle from days of yore either. It’s a whisky that matured for 40 years, having been distilled in 1982! My parents hadn’t even met at that point.
Long story short, this is a dram worth savouring. Filled with history, legends and a whole lot of appreciation for people like Davide who are willing to share drams like these with friends! I made sure to follow the golden rule for this one (a year in the cask, a minute in the glass), and thus after forty minutes I’m ready to give this Douglas Laing Port Ellen XOP 40 a go!
Port Ellen XOP 40 – Tasting Notes
Stats:
Age: 40 years old
ABV: 59,1% (118,2 proof)
Distillery: Port Ellen
Bottled by: Douglas Laing
Natural Colour: Yes
Chill-filtered: No
Nose:
Rolling waves of Islay peat flow from the glass upon first approach. As I have no comparison to other Port Ellen’s, I’d say it sits closest to Ardbeg (think charred meats and plenty of brine), but it’s paired with a lot more sweetness than I’m used to from that distillery. There’s luscious vanilla, fresh mango sorbet, and home-made strawberry marmalade. But notes that give away a bit of age are aplenty as well, with old leather, cigar boxes and hints of freshly oiled woodworking tools.
Palate:
Let’s get one thing out of the way first, 59,1% ABV is quite unusual for a whisky of this age. Time will steal away plenty of percentages most often in the Scottish climate, and most 40-year-old whiskies I’ve had the pleasure to enjoy usually sat closer to 40 than 50 percent. And while that ABV is noticeable on the palate, it feels much lower than it is. The combination liquorice root, crushed vanilla pods, cacao, freshly brewed espresso and cured meats completely outshine the zing of ethanol. There are some red chili peppers as well, paired with a rather pleasant dry mouthfeel with plenty of hints of oak.
Finish:
The finish holds plenty of surprises, but there’s always one note in whisky that I absolutely go bonkers for when I find it… and this dram has it on the finish. Smoked mackerel! I’m also picking up some lovely malty notes here, making this an experience akin to eating freshly smoked makerel on warm baked toast. But there’s some tropical notes as well, with candied pineapple as my favourite standout. The finish is long, yet not everlasting (unfortunately) and yet despite its outspoken profile, rather soft and well rounded.
Verdict:
This dram captures and captivates you with its complexity and unique combination of tasting notes that would never work together in a dish but turn out absolutely mindblowing in a whisky! This is a dram with the power to quiet an entire room, to drown out all the noise and to reach a nirvana of peace and quiet in the mind. With every, single, sip, you, take…
This was a very special dram indeed, and sadly enough it doesn’t exactly fit my budget (in fact it’s not even close) or I would have run out straight away for a bottle. If you can afford it, you’re in for an absolute treat!