Proper Twelve Review

Proper No. Twelve Review | Better Than Its Reputation?

There are very few whiskies that have divided opinion before people had even pulled the cork. Proper No. Twelve was one of them. Long before the first reviews appeared online, social media had already decided whether it was going to be brilliant or terrible, largely based on one man rather than the liquid inside the bottle.

I’ve never really understood that.

Whether a bottle has a famous footballer, actor or MMA fighter behind it has never influenced whether I buy it or not. Connor McGregor undoubtedly helped put Proper No. Twelve on the map, but I’ve always believed whisky should be judged for what’s in the glass. The aroma, the flavour and the experience matter far more to me than the name on the label. McGregor has since sold his stake in the brand anyway, making that connection largely a thing of the past.

If anything, Proper No. Twelve has probably suffered from the opposite problem. I’ve seen it described as one of the worst whiskies ever made, which simply isn’t true either. Is it a whisky I’d happily sip from a Glencairn while spending an evening analysing every layer? Not really. Is it an enjoyable, affordable Irish whiskey that knows exactly what it wants to be? I think that’s much closer to the truth.

That was exactly the mindset I tried to keep while pouring this dram. No expectations. No preconceived opinions. Just another Irish whiskey ready to prove itself on its own merits.

The story behind Proper No. Twelve starts in 2018 when Connor McGregor launched the brand together with master distiller David Elder, who previously spent years at the Old Bushmills Distillery. Although the label never openly shouted where the whiskey was produced, the connection with Bushmills was difficult to ignore and many enthusiasts quickly noticed the similarities between the two bottlings.

Rather than creating an entirely new style of Irish whiskey, Proper No. Twelve aimed squarely at the accessible end of the market. Triple distilled, bottled at 40% ABV and blended from grain whiskey and single malt, it was designed to appeal to newcomers just as much as seasoned fans looking for an uncomplicated pour.

Today the brand continues without McGregor’s involvement, which, if anything, only reinforces my view that the whiskey deserves to stand on its own two feet.

Listen to this Proper Twelve Review:

Tasting Notes: Proper No. Twelve

Stats

• Country: Ireland
• Style: Blended Irish Whiskey
• Age: NAS (minimum three years)
• ABV: 40%
• Natural Colour: No
• Chill Filtered: Likely
• Flavour Profile: Fruit Orchard Symphony

Nose

The nose immediately confirms what this whiskey is trying to be. It’s light, approachable and easy-going, without asking too much of the drinker.

Fresh pear leads the way alongside soft blossom honey before gentle vanilla begins to appear. A touch of cereal grain reminds you this is a young blend, while mild oak and baking spice provide just enough structure to stop everything becoming overly sweet.

It isn’t particularly complex, but neither does it pretend to be. Everything feels clean, balanced and unmistakably Irish. The comparison with Bushmills Original becomes apparent almost immediately, and honestly, that’s not a criticism. Bushmills Original has earned its reputation as a dependable everyday Irish whiskey, and Proper No. Twelve occupies very similar territory.

If you spend enough time searching for hidden layers you’ll probably end up disappointed, but taking it for what it is, there’s very little to dislike.

Palate

The palate opens with sweet applesauce and honey before creamy vanilla coats the tongue. Gentle cinnamon spice develops halfway through, supported by light caramel and a modest amount of oak. None of the flavours dominate the others and the whisky never becomes aggressive, making it remarkably easy to drink.

This is where I think some of the criticism surrounding Proper No. Twelve becomes unfair.

No, it doesn’t deliver the richness of a well-aged single malt. It isn’t bursting with complexity or offering layer upon layer of evolving flavours. But it also costs a fraction of what many enthusiasts compare it against.

If you judge it against €100 single malts, of course you’ll be disappointed. Judge it against other entry-level Irish blends sitting on the bottom shelf of your local whisky shop and suddenly the picture changes quite dramatically.

To me, Proper No. Twelve is exactly what an affordable Irish blend should be. I’d happily recommend it to someone looking for an easy introduction to the category, and while I’d still lean towards Bushmills Original if given the choice, the gap between the two is far smaller than many internet discussions would have you believe.

Its light body also makes it a surprisingly capable mixer. While I almost always review whisky neat, I can absolutely see this working well with ginger ale or simply poured over plenty of ice during a summer barbecue.

Finish

The finish is medium in length and follows the same path as the rest of the experience. Vanilla lingers alongside dried pear before the applesauce notes return one final time. Right at the end there’s a slightly spirity edge with a touch of acetone that reminds you this is still a young whiskey, but it never becomes unpleasant.

It never made me want to put the glass down, but neither did it tempt me to keep nosing it after the final sip. Once the finish fades, so does much of the whiskey’s personality.

Verdict

Strengths

• Judged on its own merits, it’s a perfectly respectable entry-level Irish whiskey. Much of the criticism surrounding Proper No. Twelve has always felt aimed at Connor McGregor rather than the whiskey itself. Strip away the celebrity association and you’re left with a perfectly drinkable, affordable blend.
• Excellent value for money. Proper No. Twelve delivers exactly what its price suggests: light orchard fruit, gentle honeyed sweetness, vanilla and a touch of oak. It doesn’t pretend to be anything more, and at this price point it doesn’t have to.
• Approachable and easy to drink. This is a whiskey that knows its audience. Whether you’re new to Irish whiskey, enjoying a casual dram with friends or pouring it over ice with ginger ale, it performs exactly as intended.
• A solid mixer. While I generally prefer whisky neat, Proper No. Twelve works surprisingly well in simple serves. A splash of ginger ale or soda complements its fruity, vanilla-forward character without masking much complexity, because that’s not what this whiskey is about.

Weaknesses

• Its reputation still overshadows the whisky. Proper No. Twelve continues to carry the baggage of its celebrity origins. That’s a shame, because it deserves to be judged for what’s in the glass rather than whose name happened to be on the bottle.
• Limited complexity. If you’re looking for layers of aroma and flavour to explore in a Glencairn, Proper No. Twelve is unlikely to satisfy. It remains fairly one-dimensional from nose to finish.
• The finish lacks refinement. The gentle fruit and vanilla are pleasant enough, but the slightly youthful, spirity edge reminds you this is very much an entry-level blend.
• Bushmills Original still has the edge. The similarities between the two are obvious, but if I had both bottles on the shelf, I’d still reach for Bushmills Original. To my palate it’s just that little bit more rounded and polished, although the difference is nowhere near as dramatic as some online discussions would suggest.

Food Pairing

Because Proper No. Twelve keeps everything light and approachable, I’d avoid pairing it with heavy dishes that completely overwhelm its character.

Instead, think simple.

A mature Irish cheddar works beautifully with the gentle honey sweetness, while grilled chicken with herbs keeps enough room for the vanilla and orchard fruit to remain noticeable. Apple crumble with vanilla ice cream also makes an enjoyable dessert pairing, the apples and vanilla naturally echoing the whisky’s own flavour profile.

If you’re planning to serve it as a highball or with ginger ale, it also works surprisingly well alongside burgers, barbecue food or even a takeaway pizza. Not every whisky pairing has to be fine dining.

Who Is This Whisky For?

Proper No. Twelve makes far more sense than many enthusiasts are willing to admit.

If you’re completely new to whiskey, this is an approachable introduction that won’t punish your palate. If you’re a UFC fan looking to enjoy a dram while watching the fights, you’ll probably have a perfectly enjoyable evening with it.

It’s also a sensible bottle to keep around for visitors who occasionally enjoy whiskey but aren’t necessarily looking for cask strength single malts.

Experienced enthusiasts are a different story.

If your shelves are already filled with complex single malts from Ireland and Scotland, there’s very little here that’s likely to excite you. That doesn’t make Proper No. Twelve a bad whiskey, it simply means you may have moved beyond what it’s trying to offer.

What Others Write About This Whisky

Reading other reviews afterwards was reassuring because most reached a similar conclusion. The Whiskey Jug compared Proper No. Twelve closely to Bushmills Original, describing it as a straightforward, easy-drinking Irish blend whose reputation has suffered more from Connor McGregor’s celebrity than the whiskey itself.

Adventures in Whiskey and Secret Whiskey Society echoed much the same sentiment, praising its approachable character and value for money while acknowledging that it isn’t trying to compete with more complex Irish whiskeys.

If you’d like another perspective, all three reviews are well worth reading:

Secret Whiskey Society: https://secretwhiskeysociety.com/proper-twelve-review-irish-whiskey/

The Whiskey Jug: https://thewhiskeyjug.com/irish-whiskey/proper-twelve-irish-whiskey-review/

Adventures in Whiskey: https://adventuresinwhiskey.com/2021/02/15/review-proper-no-twelve-irish-whiskey/

Final Thoughts

Proper No. Twelve was never going to change my opinion on celebrity whisky because I never really had one to begin with.

Connor McGregor’s name didn’t persuade me to buy a bottle, and his departure from the brand doesn’t make me enjoy it any less. The only thing that matters to me is what’s inside the glass.

What’s inside the glass is a perfectly respectable entry-level Irish whiskey. It won’t replace the bottles I reach for when I want to spend an evening picking apart every aroma in a Glencairn, but I also wouldn’t hesitate to pour a dram for someone who’s just discovering Irish whiskey or hand them a glass at a family barbecue.

Celebrity may have sold the first bottle, but whether people buy a second should depend entirely on the whiskey. Proper No. Twelve isn’t the masterpiece some fans hoped for, nor is it the disaster its critics often claim. It’s an honest, affordable Irish blend that delivers exactly what its price tag promises, and sometimes that’s perfectly enough.

This article contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, DRAM1 may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This never influences my reviews or opinions.