Sometimes it’s time to shake things up a bit, and for that reason I will not only start paying more attention to the downsides of the whiskies I will review, I will also add more and more comparisons. In this case we’re having a look at the Bowmore 21 Sherry Cask and the Bowmore 25 from 1998. Both simalarly priced, but vastly different drams!
On the one hand we have the 21 year old Bowmore Sherry Oak. An original bottling from the distillery itself. On the other hand we have the 4 years older Infrequent Flyers Bowmore 25, aged in a refill barrel. With a similar ABV yet different cask type and age, this will be a fun way to see what’s the best way to spend roughly 400 euro if you’re a big Bowmore fan!
Tasting Notes: Bowmore 21 Sherry Oak Casks
Stats
Age: 21 years old
ABV: 46,8% (93,6 proof)
Distillery: Bowmore
Bottled by: Bowmore
Chill-filtered: No
Natural Colour: Yes
Nose
Freshly baked (still warm) doughnuts with raisins topped with cranberry compôte pairs with artisinal apple syrup, kardemom and a faint whiff of roses. With a lovely layer of beeswax in the background. The nose of this dram is rich, yet not too complex.
Palate
On the palate I’m finding liquorice root first and foremost, paired with stewed red fruits such as strawberries and cherries. There’s a lovely black tea note in there as well, giving the palate of this Bowmore 21 Sherry Oak a complexity it was lacking on the nose. Some bacon drippings, hot coals, ash show it’s peaty background and furthermore hints of pine, honey and burnt butter add even more layers to this dram.
Finish
The finish is long with much more of that lovely black tea note, paired with forest fruits, cherry syrup and charred bacon bits that fade ever so slowly. A bit of liquorice root tea shows up near the end paired with a hint of mint, giving this dram a well rounded finish.
Food Pairing
I would recommend trying this with some extra dark chocolate, it’s a stunning combination. For a savoury option cream cheese with fresh chives on a warm baked baguette works wonders too!
Verdict
Strengths
This Bowmore 21 Sherry Oak is a great example of what made the distillery famous all over the world. A lovely rich palate, with plenty of depth and complexity and a mild and nuanced peaty character. A perfectly approachable dram even for those that don’t like peat and a perfect dram to pair with a culinary dinner.
Weaknesses
Dare I say this dram is nothing spectacular? It’s a whisky that colours neatly within the lines and gives it fans exactly what they might expect. At a much higher price tag than the original 21 year old, it might be hard to justify a purchase just for sipping. I also found the nose rather lacking, though I have to add the palate more than makes up for that minor flaw.
Tasting Notes: Bowmore 25 Infrequent Flyers (1998)
Stats
Age: 25 years old
ABV: 45,8% (91,6 proof)
Distillery: Bowmore
Bottled by: Infrequent Flyers
Chill-filtered: No
Natural Colour: Yes
Nose
A much more light and delicate nose than one might expect from a Bowmore! The nose of this Bowmore 25 is filled with confectionery goodness and floral elements. On top of that there’s smoky elements in the form of charred porterhouse steak, beef rendang and roasted vanilla pods. Candied orange peel, dark chocolate covered cherries, rum soaked pound cake and sultana’s add even more depth to the nose of this dram.
Palate
A load of pepper and tannic elements welcome you to the palate of this dram, which evolves into doughnuts with amarena cherries and clotted cream. Orange zest, peppered steak, and a hint of mint add more depth to this dram. But there are also some spices to be found here, in the form of kardemom, nutmeg and cloves.
Finish
The finish is long and savoury, with more of the beefy notes lingering on for a very l ong time. The tannic presence does leave the mouth quite dry, but there’s plenty of flavour still available to make up for it. Hints of duck liver paté and fresh cranberries show up near the end of the finish, giving this dram a luxurious afterglow.
Food Pairing
Those last notes from the finish provide the perfect accompinement for this dram! Duck liver paté paire with some cranberry compôte will blow your mind when you pair it with this 25 year old Bowmore. You could also choose to pair this with a pound cake with some fresh cranberries and a whallop of clotted cream though, in case you’re more in the mood for sweet over savoury!
Verdict
Strengths
For a decent price for a 25 year old Bowmore, you’ll get a dram that’s filled with tons of flavour. And because of the refill barrels, the distillery’s character still shines after all those years. This is beautifully complex, luxurious and absolutely shines when paired with a culinary treat.
Weaknesses
The tannic presence is rather significant, perhaps moreso than you might expect from a refill barrel. This means this is definitely not a dram for everyone, and Bowmore fans more accustomed to a milder character from the distillery’s own bottlings might be taken aback a bit. Where this dram absolutely shines when paired with food, it’s less satisfying on its own. A bit of heresy perhaps, to suggest to always pair this dram with a bit of food. But nontheless true to my own honest opinion.
The Showdown
Bowmore 21 Sherry Oak vs Infrequent Flyers Bowmore 25 (1998)
On the nose the Infrequent Flyers Bowmore 25 wins hands down, though the Bowmore 21 comes out clearly on top on the palate. Both the finishes are just as impressive, which makes this battle flavourwise a tie.
If we’re looking at the price point and exclusivity though, the Infrequent Flyers wins hands down. This is a highly limited single cask, and for four more years of age at the same price as the more available Bowmore 21 Sherry Oak, there’s really no competition at all.
But in the end whisky is all about what you like to drink, which dram keeps you coming back for more. And in that case… it’s a tie once more. I could easily see myself enjoying the Bowmore 21 on more occassions, but it’s still a special occassion dram. If I want an easy after dinner sip, it’s the 21 that will come out on top (and if I were rich enough to make it a daily sipper, it would win there too). But if I’m looking for a spectacular dram to pair with dinner for a very special occassion, it would hands down be the Infrequent Flyers.
Long story short. You can’t really go wrong with either one of these drams in the flavour depertmant, whether you’re wallet can take the dent though… that’s up to you!