Review Hogshead Tullibardine 10 Year Old (Vintage 2015) – Vin Santo Octave
There are independent bottlings that feel safe, and then there are those that deliberately poke you in the ribs and ask whether you’re paying attention. This Hogshead Tullibardine 10 Year Old, distilled in 2015 and finished in a first fill Vin Santo Octave, firmly belongs in the second category. It’s unapologetically bold, dark-leaning, and challenging – a whisky that demands engagement rather than passive sipping.
Before diving into the glass, it’s worth setting the scene.
Hogshead Indie is the brainchild of my dear friend Toon, a passionate whisky lover with a sharp eye for casks that don’t just follow trends. Friendship aside, this matters: independent bottling lives or dies by cask selection, and Toon has never been interested in playing it safe. That said, affection doesn’t buy a free pass, and I’ll come back to that later – particularly when we talk about pricing.
The spirit itself comes from Tullibardine Distillery, a Highland distillery that often flies under the radar. Tullibardine’s modern spirit is typically clean, cereal-forward, and soft in character. Pleasant, yes – but rarely described as explosive. Which makes this bottling all the more intriguing, because what ends up in the glass here is far removed from the distillery’s usual polite handshake.
The transformation largely comes from the cask. Vin Santo, the traditional Italian dessert wine made from partially dried grapes, is known for its oxidative richness, nutty bitterness, and deep dried-fruit complexity. Using a first fill Vin Santo octave – a small cask with a high wood-to-liquid ratio – is not a gentle finishing touch. It’s a full-on flavour accelerator, and this whisky wears that influence loudly.
Tasting Notes: Hogshead Tullibardine 10 Vintage 2015
Stats
- Age: 10 Years Old
- ABV: 55.6% (111.2 Proof)
- Distillery: Tullibardine
- Region: Highland Single Malt
- Flavour Profile: Sherry Velvet
- Chill-Filtration: No
- Colouring: No
Nose
The first impression is surprisingly vibrant. Strawberries and cream lead the charge, followed by fresh cranberries and a sharper raspberry note that keeps things lively. As it settles, darker elements creep in: espresso beans, raw cacao, and a warming spice mix that leans towards cardamom rather than cinnamon. A flick of orange zest lifts the whole thing, stopping it from collapsing into pure darkness. It’s expressive, slightly wild, and already hints that this is not going to be a shy dram.
Palate
The arrival is immediate and uncompromising. There’s a flash of sulphur – like a freshly struck match – that hits first and hard. For some, this will be a deal-breaker; for others, it’s part of the drama. Once past that initial punch, the whisky opens into dark chocolate-covered cherries, thick and bittersweet, followed by an almost savoury, meaty note reminiscent of peppered roast beef.
Liquorice root, charred oak, and a grounding earthiness build depth, while the high strength keeps everything tightly coiled. This is a powerful palate, far removed from the gentle, malty Tullibardine stereotype, and one that rewards slow, attentive sipping.
Finish
Long, drying, and unapologetically bitter. Tannins take centre stage, wrapped in layers of cacao powder and freshly ground espresso beans. There are lighter accents – vanilla pod and orange peel – but they remain firmly in the background. The finish doesn’t try to charm; it lingers with authority, reinforcing the whisky’s dark, assertive personality.
Food Pairing
This dram thrives alongside savoury, earthy dishes. Lamb works beautifully, as do escargots, rich pâtés, or foie gras. Strong blue cheeses like Stilton or Shropshire Blue can stand up to the intensity without being overwhelmed.
What I wouldn’t do is introduce sweetness. The whisky already leans bitter and powerful, and pairing it with sweet elements only pushes those tannins further forward, tipping the balance too far.
Who Is This Whisky For
This is not a beginner’s whisky. It’s for drinkers who enjoy darker flavour profiles, who aren’t afraid of sulphur, bitterness, or high ABV, and who appreciate cask-driven intensity over easy balance. If you like your whisky polite and dessert-like, this will feel confrontational. If you enjoy being challenged, it’s a fascinating pour.
Verdict
Strengths
This is a potent, characterful Tullibardine that delivers far more depth and darkness than the distillery’s reputation might suggest. The Vin Santo octave provides a genuinely unique angle, and fans of bitter, earthy, and savoury flavours will find plenty to admire.
Weaknesses
The price is the elephant in the room. A recommended retail price of €120 is undeniably high for a 10 year old whisky – and even more so for a Tullibardine. Yes, it’s single cask. Yes, it’s a rare and unusual finish. But that doesn’t fully erase the sticker shock. The initial sulphur hit will also be divisive, making this a punch-in-the-face dram rather than a crowd-pleaser.
Final Thoughts
This Hogshead Tullibardine 10 is bold, uncompromising, and intellectually interesting. It shows what Tullibardine can become when pushed hard by an assertive cask, and it succeeds in carving out a flavour identity that’s genuinely its own. I admire the ambition and the willingness to take risks here – even if the pricing makes me wince a little.
Friendship aside, this is a whisky I respect more than I love. And sometimes, in the world of independent bottling, that’s exactly the point.
